Seville, locally known as Sevilla, is the capital of the autonomous region of Andalucia with a unique feel all of its own. Seville charms its visitors with wonderful monuments, lively night-life and a reputation for being one of the liveliest cities in Spain. It is a vibrant city with tourists, locals and university students keeping the pace moving.
The city is closely packed and fairly flat with the mighty River Guadalquivir, the source of its existence at its heart. It is built on the plain of the river and at its highest is only 7metres above sea level.
Seville has a Mediterranean climate with an average yearly temperature of 18.6 C (65F), this makes it one of the warmest cities in Europe.
Summer temperatures usually reach 35.3C (96F), which is not pleasant for sightseeing but is great for balmy evenings watching flamenco or sipping local wine along the riverbank or one of the many green parks on the edge of the city.
Some of the variations of flamenco originate in Seville, the traditional Sevillianas, a four-part dance is the one to watch out for.
As for local cuisine Seville is famous for its oranges which used to be exported to Scotland. Sevilles other gastronomy is a mixture of olive oil from the east, Jaen and Cordoba, seafood and sherry from its westerly neighbours Cadiz and Jerez de la Frontera and the ever-present Jamon.
Seville has been around for two thousand years, the Romans left many traces of their time in what they called Hispalis, look out for the remains of a Roman aqueduct.
After brief occupation by the Vandal and Visigoths the Moors took the city in 712 and it became an important centre of Muslim rule. It remained in the hands of the Moors until the Reconquest when it fell into the hands of the Catholic King Fernando III in 1248.
In those day ships from Seville could sail the River Guadquivir from Seville to the Atlantic Ocean, a distance of about 100km. The city became very rich under the Catholic Kings, as it was given a monopoly on Spanish trade from the expeditions of the New World.
The river became less navigable for the increasing size of the ships due to silting up and trading with the Americas had to be transferred to Cadiz. This caused a downturn in the economy of Seville from which it has never really recovered.
But thanks to that golden age of the 17th century remarkable Renaissance and Baroque buildings as well as the previous Moorish monuments remain for our delight.
What to Visit in Seville
Reales Alcazares, was originally built in 913 as a fortress for the governors of Seville, it was over the years enlarged into what today, is more like a palace. It's a beautiful building with gorgeous gardens, one of the not be missed visits, with lots of gorgeous patios.
Plaza de España is an enormous semi-circular plaza built for the Ibero-American Exposition in 1929, an event intended to boost the Andalucían economy but which unfortunately coincided with the Wall Street Crash.
Barrio de Santa Cruz is the old Jewish quarter just east of the cathedral. It's a delightful amble around maze-like streets with lovely patios oozing with flowering plants. Plaza Santa Cruz, the main square has a beautiful wrought-iron cross dating form 1692.
The Cathedral was built on the site on a mosque. The church authorities decided to pull down the decaying building and according to tradition wanted to "create such a building that future generations will take us for lunatics", and they did – it is one of the three largest cathedrals in the world.
La Giralda stands at over 90 metres high is the original tower of the mosque which was built in brick and took 14 years to complete, from 1184 to 1198. It has been called the most perfect Islam building in Spain due to its proportions, decoration and colour which change according to the light.
Access is from with the cathedral, take a climb to the belfry which is quite easy-going as there are ramps that enabled the guards to ride up on horseback. This is easily the best view of the city.
Torre del Oro or The golden Tower is a 13th Muslim watchtower that stands on the riverbank. It was originally one of a pair that stood each side of the river with a huge chain stretched between them to prevent ships sailing upriver. It was a corner tower of the city walls and was supposedly covered in gold tiles, hence its name. Inside the tower is a small sea-faring museum, Museo Maritimo.
Antigua Fabrica de Tabacos or The Old Tabaccco Factory workplace of Carmen the opera heroine was built in the 18th century and continued its trade until the mid 20th century. It's an amazing complex with its own jail, stabling for 400 mules, 24 patios and a nursery as most of its employees were women.
The factory is now part of the university, an impressive and interesting visit just south of the city centre.
Ferias and Fiestas in Seville
One of the most famous of all the Sevillian festivals has to be Semana Santa or Easter Week. Every day from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday processions, floats and life-size images from the Easter Story parade the streets from each church and district to the cathedral. Hundreds, even thousands of people join the parades.
The origins of these processions date back to the 14th century, many of the images we see today were made crafted in the 17th century and are irreplaceable works of art.
The highlight of the week is Good Friday when specially chosen processions leave their churches in the early evening and start to enter the cathedral in a preset order from about 1.30 am this can finish around 6am. The images that take pride of place on Good Friday are from the oldest, the most revered and the most popular churches.
Feria de Abril the April fair takes place in the second half of April a long and jolly party after the religiosity of Semana Santa. It takes place in the El Real de la Feria a specially designated area for partying.
On the first Monday a starting gun and fireworks announce the beginning of a week of gaiety. Dancing, eating and drinking until dawn. So get out your flamenco dress and join the crowds. People put on their finery, horses and carts are decorated and paraded around the streets, also during this week Seville's bullfighting season takes place.
Getting around Seville
Horse-drawn carriages are not only traditional but a gloriously relaxing way to see the city. Cabs wait for fares in the Plaza del Triunfo outside the cathedral, next to the Plaza de España and near the Torre del Oro.
Another enjoyable way to see the city is a river cruise, boats leave from the Torre del Oro for an hour long river trip to see the historical monuments of the city.
Being a fairly flat city hiring a bike might appeal, with special bicycle lanes it's far more enjoyable than taking a car into the city.
Or for the best view of all take an open-topped double-decker bus trip, pick it up from the Torre del Oro and jump off wherever you like. Enjoy.
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