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The Cities of Provence by Eurostar and TGV

Eurostar to France this Summer
The Cities of Provence have been made much more accessible by the weekly charter train that leaves London during the summer months, direct to Avignon Centre. Gilly Pickup visits the major cities of Provence, the land of Van Gogh, fertile vineyards and sleepy villages where time-honoured trades such as pottery, soap making and traditional woodwork are still celebrated.
Aix en Provence

Aix-en-Provence

The living history book that is Aix-en-Provence has been a university town forever. With its plane tree shaded boulevards, public squares, 17th century mansions and secret gardens glimpsed through elaborate iron railings, the town has as its main thoroughfare elegant Cours Mirabeau, studded with trickling fountains and guarded by haughty stone lions. In its midst, is the Café des Deux Garçons, once favoured by local boy, artist Cezanne. 

The Romans called the town ‘Aquae Sextius’, which evolved into ‘Aix’, after the thermal springs which continue to flow here.  Even now, through the windows of the Sextius Thermal Baths, where a wide range of hydrotherapy treatments are on offer to today’s health-conscious individuals,  the excavated ruins of the Roman baths are clearly visible. 

More To Do in Aix
Find the Tapestry Museum on the first floor of the Archbishop’s Palace in Place de l’Ancien Archeveche. The apartments are choc-a-bloc with a superb collection of tapestries and 17th century furniture.

See Cezanne’s easel, palette, bowler hat, smock and some original drawings in the cottage  where he completed his last works. Cezanne’s Studio isat 9 Avenue Paul Cezanne.

Aix market sets up in the town’s old square on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Visit the Food Markets in the Place des Precheurs and Place de la Madeleine and see stalls piled high with shiny peppers, ruby jewelled tomatoes, fat strawberries, bowls of olives and dips, rich-textured local wines and stacks of cheeses. Flea Markets are the source of some great bargains.  If it’s bric-a-brac or second hand books you’re after, visit the Place de Verdun while for clothes, it’s best to try the market behind the Law Courts.

The focal point of the town is the Cathédrale St-Sauveur, with its octagonal, 5th-century baptistry, cloisters and a Buisson Ardent triptych painted in 1476.

Short Breaks in Avignon

Avignon

Located in the heart of the Vaucluse region, this walled city where Picasso breathed his last breath is probably best known for its 12th century Pont St Bénezet, the bridge made famous in the song ‘Sur le pont d'Avignon, on y danse, on y danse'. There are plenty of opportunites for shopping in Avignon. Find most of the big stores in the rue de la République, while the Place de l’Horloge – its name comes from the Gothic clock tower, is the hub of the town with pavement cafés, street vendors, the Théâtre Municipal and 19th-century Hôtel de Ville. For fresh produce, hie off to the indoor market, Les Halles, open every day except Monday from 6am-2pm . Don’t forget to try some ‘papalines,’ a sweet treat made from chocolate and liquor.

The best way for visitors to explore Avignon is to wander through its maze of medieval streets, many of which take their names from inns, like the rue du Chapeau Rouge, or from trades, such as rue des Fourbisseurs (weapon sharpeners).

More To Do in Avignon

The Annual Theatre Festival takes place in July.  For three weeks the city is packed with street performers, actors, musicians as well as  tourists. Some of the performances take place inside the Pope's Palace.

The Palais des Papes, one time home to the papacy, dominates the skyline with its elaborate spires, its exterior more jaw dropping than anything inside.

Visit Doms Cathedral a short walk from the Palais des Papes where Pope John XXII is buried.

The Calvet Museum is where to see a fine range of painting displays, as well as a few oddities including a 13th century Camobidan head and a pair of narwhal tusks. The Museum Angladon displays private collections which includes Van Gogh's ‘The Railroad Cars.’

Marseilles Hotels with Guest Reviews, Deals and Offers

Marseille

Rugged Marseilles is a melting pot of cultures, a mix of Arab cool and acres of ancient splendour. With its hot climate and fiery southern temperament, this is a gritty city, with a rich cultural heritage and Europe’s largest yachting centre. Shopaholics should head for La Canebiere, Marseille’s main thoroughfare, which leads to the ornate Palais Longchamp, housing the Fine Arts and Natural History museums. Nearby are the bustling markets, shops and cafes of tree-lined square Cours Julien, the edgiest place in town to see and be seen.

Like all pulsing international destinations, you can find every type of cuisine here. One local delicacy visitors shouldn’t go home without trying is ‘bouillabaisse’, a fish stew bursting with flavour from the sea. This is the place where it started life as humble fodder for fishermen’s families using fish that could not be sold.

More To Do in Marseille

If you head up the calf-wrenching steps to the basilica of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde with its 10-metre high golden Madonna, the city’s highest point, you will be rewarded by top-notch views.

Set your alarm and be sure to get up early enough to catch the renowned daily seafood and fish market at the Vieux Port.

Explore the narrow streets of the Quartier du Panier, the oldest part of Marseille. Nearby at the former granary now called 'Interface', you will find contemporary art exhibitions. Rue Sainte and rue Grignan in the city centre also have a collection of galleries.

Catch one of the regular boats which sail from Vieux-Port to If, three kilometres off the coast. François I discovered the island in the 16th century and built a fortress there. Soon this became an prison for galley slaves then Huguenot prisoners. In fiction, Alexandre Dumas' Count of Monte Cristo was incarcerated there.

The Church at Auvers-sur-Oise, Van Gogh

Arles

Van Gogh came to Arles in 1888, which happened to be the same year he cut off part of his left ear. He wrote to his friend Gauguin, 'Perhaps Arles will disappoint you, if you come here in mistral weather; but you wait. It is only in the long run that the poetry of this place penetrates.'  This is where he painted some of his most celebrated works, including Starry Night, The Bridge at Arles, and Sunflowers.

Often called the soul of Provence, this easy going town is full of craft shops, wine bars and bistros. The town’s bright colours inspired the designs of Christian Lacroix, who was born here. In 1986, the city received the official French title of ‘City of Art and History’.

More To Do in Arles

The Musee de la Camargue is housed in a converted sheep shed. A world of Camargue life is preserved here, covering history, flora and fauna and traditional life in the area. A nature trail leads to an observation tower with great views.

Every August, the Roman Theatre stages a series of outdoor screenings of Hollywood epics known locally as Le Festival Peplum.

The Espace van Gogh,  once a hospital where Van Gogh had spent some time after the ear incident, has art exhibitions throughout the year.

Hop on Le Petit Train d'Arles, an easy way to see the main sights if you don’t want to walk. Tours with English commentary take 35 minutes and leave from Les Arènes and Boulevard des Lices.

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