Dubrovnik's Back

The Hotel Libertas, on the outskirts of this historic city, had a grandstand view of the shelling that rained down from the Yugoslav forces in the mountains above. Then on December 6^th 1991, this once glamorous hotel became the target, as shells burst through the roof, and gutted large parts of the complex. The terrace where we were now sitting was cratered, and covered with debris. As the war progressed, the remains of the hotel were used to house refugees, although as a memorial in the car park now attests this was still by no means a safe haven.

Once peace was restored the site lay abandoned, with the balconies and foyer overgrown, and the rooms full of rubbish. And yet the idyllic location still attracted those wanting to swim and sunbathe. 

It’s just one story that could be repeated countless times across the city. Despite the damage, the people gradually came back and found that Dubrovnik had lost nothing of its perfect setting. The waters of the Adriatic were still the same glorious blue, the narrow streets still oozed charm, an array of pretty boats bobbed up and down in the harbour as before, and of course the sun still shone.

The Libertas Hotel has now undergone a massive rebuild and renovation, and is under the wing of the Rixos Hotel group. The transformation is amazing, and without doubt it is probably the best place to stay if you are visiting Dubrovnik. The rooms are large, bright, and well appointed, with flat screen televisions that pop up at the touch of a button. The open plan layout of the rooms may not be to everyone’s liking, but that is more than offset by the unbeatable panoramic sea views.

There are no less than five bars, and a choice of places to eat – and you will want to try them all, as the food is first rate. But this is a place to relax. Indoor and outdoor swimming pools, large sun terraces, gardens, and a relaxation and wellness area will see that everyone will have the best opportunity to feel refreshed. Of course you can also swim in the sea, as an area directly in front of the hotel is marked off and kept immaculately clean for guests. Watching the man dive with his basket to collect any loose bits of seaweed was a first for me! In the evenings, try the casino or nightclub, or just enjoy your drinks on the terrace, washed over by the warm airs of the Adriatic. In many places, the hotel is just somewhere to reside while you explore the region. Here, however, the hotel becomes part of the experience.

It’s also in the best position, as its just 15 minutes walk into the city, and yet that is far enough to be secluded, quiet, and not to be bothered by the crowds that herd off of the cruise ships each morning. Those crowds can be a problem. If possible, always leave any visit into the walled city until the afternoon, when they have all either gone back to their ships, or departed on coach tours.

Walking the streets of the old city is a joy, though, and certainly one to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. A walk around the city walls – or at least the southern half - is well worth the few Euros it costs. It can be a bit nerve-wracking in places, but the views both across the city, and out to sea are breathtaking. The main entrance is just inside the main gate, and tickets are available next to Big Onofrio’s Fountain.

Dubrovnik was once a major player in the sea trade of southern Europe, even rivalling Venice in importance. It was protected as a kind of neutral City State, basically being everybody’s friend, at the same time as spying on them all! Nowadays, its churches, cathedrals, and myriad of other significant historic buildings draw visitors from around the world.

The long main street, or Placa, with its marbled paving slabs gleaming in the sunlight, is awash with ice cream parlours and gift shops. But step into any of the narrow side streets, and it’s easy to imagine you are stepping back in time. Steep steps lead up past overhanging buildings, with washing lines stretching between them and women chatting from window to window.

Back on the tourist trail, the Dominican Monastery also houses a small but interesting museum. There are some interesting artefacts, although much was apparently plundered during the Napoleonic time. The Emperor, of course, was not known for his love of monastic buildings, and whilst his troops were the occupying force here the monastery was used as stables for his horses. On the walls around the central courtyard there is still evidence of hollowed out stones that were used to hold water for them.

As you walk under the tall bell tower, the small square in front of St Blaise’s church is the start of the other main street, Pred Dvorom. This is fronted by impressive buildings such as the City Hall and the Rectors Palace, and leads along to the Cathedral. Take a diversion along the Od Puca, to the lively market in Gundulic’s Square. This is where you’ll find the best bargains, although to be fair Croatia is still amongst the best value for money of all the Mediterranean countries.

The Old Port is one of the most popular places to wander. Despite the mixture of traditional and modern craft, the whole place has a kind of timeless air about it. It’s surrounded on three sides by high walls that once protected the city, but today is a busy working harbour. Small boats take groups of tourists along the coast, or out to the islands, sometimes in glass bottomed vessels that allow you to enjoy the crystal clear waters.

With such a maritime heritage, it’s no surprise that seafood is high on the menu for most of the area’s better restaurants. If you’re not too confident with oysters, mussels, squid, and the like, then this is the place to try them. They are unlike most others I have tasted, and have a far ‘softer’ quality that was particularly enjoyable. Croatia is known also for its wines, of course, and you don’t need to travel far outside Dubrovnik to see the hills lined with vineyards.

Back on the terrace at the Hotel Rixos Libertas, as it is now called, we were happily enjoying the seafood, and the wine. The old Napoleonic fortress on top of the mountain is now nicely lit, and there is a feeling of ‘forgive and forget’ amongst the Balkan people that I spoke to. The emphasis is on attracting visitors back to see for themselves that this is still a region with plenty to offer. Those with long memories of European travel will recall how popular the former Yugoslavia used to be for British visitors. It won’t be long before the masses ‘rediscover’ it, so the smart advice is to plan your trip soon.