The Harwich to Esbjerg route operated by DFDS Seaways is somewhat unique in that it seems to serve a few different functions at once; the standard ferry journey that allows you to transport both you and your car to Denmark, giving access to Scandinavia, as a freight operation, and also as an inexpensive mini-cruise.
We chose to give the mini-cruise a try as it seemed attractive as a low-cost means of taking a short break without the stress of going via an airport. So, we drove from central London to Harwich, a journey which, even on a Friday took us exactly two hours by taking the A12 out of town all the way to the port. On arrival, we swept straight into the car park adjacent to the terminal and walked the few steps to departures in time for the 17:30 departure. The car park was just £7.50 per 24 hours, but note that the rail service from London Liverpool Street also runs right up to the terminal.
Checking in took no more than a few minutes and before we knew it we were walking up the gangway to the “Dana Sirena” itself. Finding our room was pretty easy, it was a sea view room on level 7, which had a clever room-card key system to let us in. The room itself has a large window, two comfortable stow-away beds with a pillow and soft mattress each. To keep us occupied, as if we really needed it, there was a choice of videos on the TV as well as Sky and BBC news. For me, the best feature of the cabin was the shower which had fantastic pressure which regulated just the right temperature. In the bathroom you also have a lavatory and wash basin but above all there was plenty of room.
By this time we were both ready for food, so off we went to the Seven Seas restaurant on level 8, which opened at 18:30, Danish time. On arrival we were told that we had to book a table as the place was already full, so we booked and came back an hour later. The waiter service was attentive and friendly; the food I have to say was excellent, with plentiful choice of healthy, well cooked food. After dinner, the Commodore lounge is a perfect place to put your feet up with a pint.
At the time of booking you have the choice between the three restaurant options, but you save money by booking ahead. We chose the buffet option at the Seven Seas, as opposed to the Blue Riband restaurant, or the Explorer’s Steakhouse. If you want a cheaper option you have the Lighthouse Cafe downstairs, which has comfortable leather seas all around, the kid’s zone, and large round windows to gaze at the front of the ship moving through the North Sea.
We were lucky with the weather; the North Sea was flat calm for most of the journey and actually got calmer as we got closer to Denmark. This allowed for plenty of time outside on deck to view the great number of commercial ships and the oil and gas platforms that you can see along the way. It also lends itself to wildlife spotting, with the great variety of birds and sea life that the North Sea supports. DFDS supports the ORCA charity that monitors sea life, a representative on board made an interesting presentation about the whales and dolphins that can be spotted.
After 18 hours at sea, we were in sight of land again, or rather the vast sand banks that can be seen along the Danish coast. As we came closer to Esbjerg, we were greeted by the four giant statues “The Human by the Sea”, apparently aimed to depict the purity of man before he came to harness the power of sail, which is where the artist thinks things started to go downhill! From a personal viewpoint taking to the sea in this instance was a great choice.
We had four hours to kill in Esbjerg, so we strolled off along the portside to the town centre. What we were really surprised by was how little traffic there was. It may have been the weekend, but you sometimes could cross the road without seeing a single car in the distance. This would inevitably come as a shock to a couple who live practically alongside Bayswater Road in central London.
The Town Square was where it was at though, with a great number of people sat outside enjoying a beer and a chat in the balmy sunshine. No doubt there are days when Esbjerg is under siege from the North Sea winds, but that day was a real spring sunny day, and a joy. In terms of shops, you can find plenty along Kongensgade and Torvegade but what really surprised us was a leather and mink shop, a sign that the people of Denmark have a level of freedom greater than ours – would a mink shop survive 24 hours in politically-correct London without getting vandalised?
As the weather was so good, there wasn’t anything we could be motivated to do other than to sit and enjoy the sun with a cold beer. Talking to the locals was fun, and all thoughts of the hustle and bustle of city life were truly absent.
We had to be back at the port for 17:00, for boarding at 18:00 and no sooner had we checked our sun-tans in the mirror, we were booking a place at the restaurant again, this time with a sea view, which was great.
If you are looking for a weekend away, with or without your kids, we would recommend the DFDS “Dana Sirena”, particularly if you are within easy travelling distance to Harwich. For £125 per person, you can two nights, each with a large, buffet breakfast, and evening dinners included. Furthermore, you get total relaxation, making you feel completely refreshed on your return home.
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