Beth Ditto and her indie band, The Gossip, launched the 2010 ski season in Ischgl, a traditional Austrian village nestled in the Tyrolean Alps. But before her performance at the Top of the Mountain Concert, she told eager reporters that she’d never heard of Ischgl, let alone skied or snowboarded. So here are my top tips that Beth should have been armed with before her visit and for anyone else keen to make the most of their time in Ischgl.
Party like Beth Ditto?
Beth was late to her pre concert press conference. She told us it was because she had been ‘drawing on her eyebrows which took her three goes to get straight and then she had to get her new hair weave in.’ But Beth is missing a trick here, as in Ischgl there is no need to make too much of an effort to go out. It’s straight off the bright white, nose stinging fresh pistes and into the dimly lit and meltingly warm après ski bars. So unless you want to look like one of the scantily clad Dirndl dancing Girls in the Schatzi bar of Hotel Elisabeth by the Pardatschgratbahn lift, you can forget your Jimmy Choo’s. Stomping around in you ski boots is the epitome of cool.
Beth probably didn’t realise that whilst Ischgl is one of the liveliest resorts in the Alps, it’s still rather laid back and a girl in a skirt is a rare sight. You can find a little bit of grown-up hedonism in the village with its streets lined with plush restaurants, designer bars and glossy boutiques. Head to Bar Allegra on the main strip through the village or Toni’s Apres ski bar , directly on the slope by the Pardatschgratbahn lift for a more sophistication feel. Good-humoured partying continues in the streets around Silvrettabahn cable car, which are lined with merry Austrians and Germans. And it’s fine to look like what you’re actually there for – the skiing, whilst sipping glühwein outside the Trofana Alm near the Silvrettabahn cable car. Packed to the rafters, this rustic looking cabin has two floors, filled to the brim with full on German sing-a-longs. Then there’s the Kuhstahl under the Sporthotel Silvretta where the crowds overflows onto the street outside. Or try stomping along on tables in your ski boots to umpah Euro rock of Niki’s Stadl. Niki MC’s and keeps everyone revved up in bierfest mode. From around 7pm many places wind down the après ski as people head off to eat. But after dinner, the partying rev’s up again and there are lots of good bars offering great late-night partying and dancing. The Golden Eagle pub is lively or head for some dancing in the huge Trofana Arena (I’m sure Beth will enjoy the pole dancing.) Other nightclubs include The Coyote Ugly at Hotel Madlein and the only alpine branch of Ibiza’s legendary club, Pacha, which is also in the Madlein Hotel.
Ski like Beth Ditto?
Beth said that the only time she’d performed somewhere this cold and damp was her bedroom. She’d never heard of Ischgl and until recently, not many Brits had cottoned on to the pretty and compact resort with top-class slopes, big-name gigs and a high-end feel. About 90 minutes from Innsbruck, the resort is at an altitude of 1,377 metres in the Paznaun Region of the Tirol and is in the Silvretta Mountains. It’s a huge 230km area and most of it high with the top point being the Palinkopf at 2,865m. This means there is usually snow from November right up until May. The three modern cable cars are found in the town centre and are just a few minutes walk from each other. The Silvrettabahn transports you directly to the top station, the Idalp, but it can get busy first thing in the morning, so try the Fimbabahn to either the middle station, Pardatschalp or the Idalp. If you’re a beginner, like Beth, then start high up where the runs are easier. The pistes do have names, but the Austrian dialect makes them hard for even German’s to pronounce so they also have numbers. The lower numbers are all the runs down to the village anything over 60 are high up and on the Swiss side. Beth should stick to higher numbers until she gets her ski legs established. Then at the end of the day she may want to take one of the three high-speed gondolas back from the mid-stations as the slopes back to the village steepen slightly towards the bottom.
The runs themselves are big and sweeping with the ‘Eleven’ ski piste being one of the longest in Austria, at a drop of 1,472 metres. Starting at the Greitspitze, the first part is black, then consistently red. Fly past the Idalp and back down to the town centre. Swiftly get back up to the ‘bowl like’ Idalp ski area, and make the most of the heated seats on the new Lange Wand chair lift , warmed up and ready to do it all over again.
Beth may also want to stock up on goodies, so another great run from the Palinkopf is the Duty Free Run. (80/81) You don’t deen your passport, just drop over the border into the Swiss duty-free pocket of Samnaun and enjoy the viewson the way down. People often ski on the Swiss side in the morning as it’s sunnier, but can also busier.
There is a lot of good off-piste skiing in Ischgl, but most of it can’t be seen from the pistes so few venture onto it. Great for anyone who is new to deep powder skiing and wants to practice their skills. Hire a guide from the Snow Sports Academy at the Idalp, or the Ski Club of Great Britain hosts a Ski Club Leader in Ischgl ( this season from 16 Jan 2011 to 1 April 2011.) They ski with members each day (except Saturdays) and offer a varied programme suitable for all standards except beginners.
Eat like Beth Ditto?
There’s no shortage of excellent places to eat in Ischgl. Virtually all village restaurants are associated with hotels, so most people tend to stay half board, but they are available for non-residents too. For a real treat for Beth, they don’t come much better than the Paznaunerstube in the Hotel Trofana Royal(05444 600 50) The Michelin starred and Gault-Millaut multi award winning gourmet restaurant is presided over by celebrity chef Martin Sieberer. Four course menus start at €55 right up to the fabulous ten course ‘Paznaun’ gala menu at €112 (wine extra). Whilst there, visit their Royal Wine Cellar which stocks over 500 wines from Austria and around the world. We enjoyed a glass of wine complimenting each course; to start, the goose liver ‘ice cream’ and Crème brûlée au foie gras was expertly matched with a “Riesling Auslese” 2005, the melt in your mouth sea bass in saffron sauce ( a delicate mouthful worth presented in a tiny glass jar ) was accompanied with a ‘Chardonnay – Lores” 2008 and the local ox with braised cheek came with a delicious “Blaufränkisch Dürrau” 2006 and this of course was followed with desert wine and Schnapps.
Other good hotels to try are the 4* Hotel Jägerhof, or the 4* Hotel Goldener Adler which offer five-course meals and themed evenings. For lighter meals try the Schatzi, Allegra (burgers etc) or the Trofana Alm (grills) and for fondue or ribs try the Kitzloch. For Italian, try the Toscana and Salz & Pfeffer.
The mountain restaurants offer a great range of dishes from hearty Austrian fare to gastro 5 course dinners, but they do tend to get busy at peak times so get there early at around 12.15pm to beat the rush. Our ski guide, Patrick swiftly delivered us for lunch at the Paznauner Thaya ( 2000m) Almost bursting out of his ski suit, Patrick was clearly a fan of Austrian dumplings as we started with a bacon and chive dumpling in clear broth, followed by a meat rosti covered in runny egg and more sweet dumplings to finish. Certainly enough to fuel you through an afternoon of skiing. The rustic Paznauner Thayer also has a good self-service on the ground level, and a large sunny balcony terrace area to dine on.
Also on the Austrian side the Alpenhaus (Idalp – 2,300m) (43 (0) 5444 606-844) is the home of Ischgl’s exclusive VIP club – the first such club in the Alps. It’s very much a modern twist on an Alpine cabin and feels very ‘designer.’ with both table-service and self-service areas. We had a creamy ‘cheese soup’ to start, then delicate pork medallions, followed by an ‘egg nog’ cone for desert.
The glass-sided Pardorama (Pardatschsgrat – 2,624m) (05444 606-820) is impressive and offers some of the best views over the mountains. We had a clear broth with pancake slivers, and excellent schnitzel and for dessert, dumplings filled with three different flavours; berries, chocolate and apricot.
For an evening treat, ascend the Silvrettabahn for dinner at the Panorama (Idalp – 2,300m) (05444 606-813) During the day it offers a good self-service on the ground level, and on the first floor is the cosy ‘Gourmet-Stüberl’, a cosy mountain cabin with waiter service which also has a large sunny balcony terrace area to dine on. The restaurant offers regional specialties and international dishes. Expect to pay around €30 for a soup starter, main and beer.
Swiss International Airlines from London Heathrow to Zurich but from December to April easyJet flies direct to Innsbruck from London Gatwick, Bristol and Liverpool and British Airways offers flights from London Gatwick to Innsbruck.
Where to Stay:
The 4* Hotel Goldener Adlerwhere a double room is from €95 per person per night half board (based on two sharing), and 4* Hotel Jägerhof with double rooms from €92 per person per night half board (based on two sharing). The Paznaun Tourist Offices operates an excellent service for matching visitors’ requirements with accommodation offers via the website on www.ischgl.com or direct firstname.lastname@example.org
The best ski pass deal in Paznaun is the 4+2, allowing four days in one of the villages and two in the neighbouring resorts of Galtür and Kappl, with 2010-11 prices for adults from €190